Guling Guling of Paoay

Rio in Brazil is famous for the Samba orgy that is Mardi Gras. New Orleans celebrates Fat Tuesday with much revelry and drinking. Paoay, Ilocos Norte, in keeping with its deep Catholic roots, has a much more somber festivity called Guling Guling -- after the white cross marked on the foreheads of its inhabitants on the Tuesday before Ash Wednesday. It is a day of dancing and drinking too (of the native basi, made from sugar cane juice), with native rice cakes called dudol and impaltao also prepared.

Being one of the centers of abel loomweaving, the Paoayenos don native costumes, and dance to the tune of a graceful kumintang. Everyone brings out their Sunday finery, with some of the older ladies showing off their gold tamburins and crosses.

Talking with British guests, it was interesting to learn that the day before Ash Wednesday is called Shrove Tuesday, when the British would clean up the flour and oil in their cupboards--and make all the pancakes they can. It is the last day prior to the 40 days of fasting in Lent, hence people would use up the eggs and flour, cleaning up the larder, as well as cleaning up "spiritually."

Perhaps there are other towns in the Philippines that have a similar practice. It is yet another part of the rich heritage of our Spanish, and Catholic, colonial past.