True North

Aramid

2008-07-13T19:46:00.000-07:00

Aramid is derived from the Ilocano word that means "to make or create." It is the title of the Arts & Crafts exhibit at Pinto Gallery highlighting hand-made items from organic raw materials: vintage and new inabel fabrics from Ilocos; the light sculptures of Perry Mamaril made of bamboo and hand-made paper; terracotta vases, sculpture, containers and tiles; and a one-of-a-kind functional wood sculpture by Rocky Camus.

Bamboo is now becoming recognized for its strength and beauty, with many designers and architects rediscovering this material. Perry Mamaril first became known for his unique bamboo and paper creations that he later named "light sculptures." Made from irregularly shaped cuts of bamboo, wicker, rattan, and covered with fine hand-made paper, the sculptures are in the shape of salamanders and geckoes, as well as varied organic and geometric shapes. They are reminiscent of the Akari series of paper lanterns by the Japanese architect Noguchi, but with an undeniably Pinoy-Ilocano flavor. For Aramid, Perry has set the bar even higher with three unique creations: a wall lamp, a floor lamp, and a large scale three-piece hanging lamp.

From modest beginnings at the Café by the Ruins in Baguio, Perry and his creations have come a decidedly long way. His unique sculptures have been exhibited in many parts of the world, and are available at his atelier in New York, and periodic homecoming shows. Perry has also embarked on a separate culinary career—cooking at the celebrated Cendrillon Restaurant in New York. His culinary creations will be highlighted during a private function at the Sitio Remedios Heritage Village in Currimao, Ilocos Norte.

Other bamboo lamps by young artisans from Ilocos who were inspired by Perry, are also on exhibit.

Clay is one of the earliest materials used by artisans worldwide. Our very own Manunggul Jar, featured in the reverse of the one thousand-peso bill, is one of the oldest artifacts from pre-historic Philippines. Today, artisans from all over the country preserve this age-old tradition that links us with many cultures, producing utilitarian pieces of great beauty. The lineup of artworks, by artists Joe Geraldo, Pablo Capati III, Anna Varona, Rita Badillo-Gudino, Joey de Castro, Pete Cortes, Kim Mendoza and Sonny Cruz, shows the rich diversity of terracotta and stoneware traditions and the many possibilities of this exciting material.

The Zen-inspired wood furniture by Rocky Camus are functional art works — unique, and sporting a sheen that is attained only in hand-sanded hardwood.

Aramid is a celebration of Filipino artistry, creativity and craftsmanship being held under the auspices of the Silangan Foundation for the Arts, Culture and Ecology with the cooperation of the Provincial Tourism Office of Ilocos Norte. The exhibit opened on May 4 at the Pinto Art Gallery, No. 1 Sierra Madre, Grand Heights, Antipolo City [Tel: (02) 697-1015.]

Lolo Pablo

2008-05-29T18:14:00.000-07:00

My grandfather was 93 when he died, having outlived all his siblings and friends. During his last years, he would often complain that "everyone is gone" and "I have lost authority over my own body." I was born when he was over 60 years old, when he was still very strong and vital, being the health buff and retired military that he was.

He would wake up every morning at 4 am, gather all the leaves in the yard, which he would then burn in a big pile, after which he would complete his exercise routine. Shower at 6, breakfast at 630, after which he would read his daily prayers - from a book of daily prayers that his military chaplain gave him in Corregidor ages back. After a simple breakfast of coffee or tea, and pan de sal with a fried egg, he would sit at his desk promptly at 7 am. There he would hold court, like a doctor or magistrate, ministering to a constant stream of simple people - farmers and fisher folk who fought as guerillas during the war.

He would work on their applications for USVA pensions, or notices for changes of status, such as when a veteran would die. His reward came in many forms - tobacco leaves, or cigars; newly harvested rice, or fresh vegetables, fish, sometimes the occasional live chicken. But I suspect that his biggest reward were the smiles on the faces of his hardy comrades.

He established American Legion Post 14 in Pasuquin, to take care of the mostly unlettered veterans, writing and typing their letters and petitions, answering bureaucratic communications, reassuring his comrades that everything is in allright. He kept their files in order, to ensure that he is on top of their current situation. He kept up this free consultation for as long as he could, giving it up only when his eyes could no longer see, his ears could hardly hear, and his fingers could no longer type.

He had a military issue jeep - an Eisenhower I think it was. Once or twice a month, he would drive to Laoag, with me in the passenger seat. Dust would trail us as we traversed the 17 kilometer distance over the neatly kept gravel road. The wooden bridge at Bangsirit would creak ominously as we gingerly crossed its short span. The reward for accompanying Lolo would come later - a short glass of halo halo in one of the kiosks east of the provincial capitol, or an ice cream sandwich at the old Peppermint on Rizal Street.

Lolo Pablo joined the Philippine Scouts while he was in his teens. He walked the ten-odd kilometers from Vintar to Laoag, to apply at the local military camp. Passing the physicals, he was sent first to Fort Stotsenburg (present-day Clark), then to Fort McKinley (now the Bonifacio Global City), and from there to the far island of Mindanao, to Zamboanga.

He trained under his Cabo, Facundo Aguinaldo, who happened to come from Pasuquin, the town to the north and west of his native Vintar. There he met Facundo's daughter Petra, four years his junior. When Facundo was assigned to Corregidor, he brought Pablo with him, and in December 1926, Pablo and Petra were married at the island fortress. Their first child died in infancy, and my mother, Gliceria, was born in 1929, followed by Rita, Pablo Jr, then another uncle who died young. Their youngest, Johnny, was born in Pasuquin during the war, while Lolo was a guerilla leader in the mountains of his native Vintar.

Lolo Pablo was with the artillery at Corregidor, and fought until the end, when Gen. Wainwright surrendered in May 1942. He crossed the narrow strait to Ternate, Cavite on a banca with his fellow soldiers, and slowly found his way back to Manila, then to Ilocos. (His family left Corregidor sometime 1939, when talk of war was rife, evacuating first to Manila, and then to the small sitio of Pacac in the hills east of Pasuquin.)

Captured by the Japanese forces, he was incarcerated at Capas, Tarlac, but later released when he was diagnosed with malaria. He recovered and rejoined the guerillas.

He was military mayor of Pasuquin towards the end of WWII. He availed of his GI Bill entitlements, returning to school for his Associate degree. In the mid-1950s, he left for the United States, going first to San Francisco, and later Phoenix, Arizona. (His elder brothers were among the early migrant workers brought to Hawaii, who later resettled on the mainland.) By the time I was born, he was back in Pasuquin to take care of the veterans needs. He was also an active mason, and a civic and community leader.

He was a constant presence in our lives - the anchor that kept us rooted, and stable. Lola Petra was strict yet loving, while Lolo Pablo was quiet and reassuring. Together they held our family together, cementing the bonds with love and the values they taught us - much like their namesakes, Peter and Paul, nurtured the church at its infancy.

We remember them both with nostalgia and gratitude everyday of our lives.

SUMMER'S LAST HURRAH

2008-05-29T18:00:00.000-07:00

Insider’s guide to Ilocos Norte

Ilocos Norte, at the tip of northwest Luzon, is fast becoming a destination of choice. And the administration of Gov. Michael Keon is organizing special events to lure tourists, domestic and foreign, to savor the unique offerings of the province. Here are some of the things you can do in Ilocos Norte.

In Batac, look for Riverside—where the best empanada and miki (a thick chicken noodle soup, akin to lomi) are served from mid-afternoon to late evening. Balut, fried squid, fried quail eggs, and other delicacies are also served. Both the empanada and the miki are colored deep orange—the color of achuete (anatto).

In San Nicolas, look for Dawangs, home of the original crispy dinardaraan (the dry Ilocano dinuguan), insarabasab (grilled pork strips served with fresh tomatoes and onions), papaitan (beef, carabao or goat sweetmeats boiled in bile, and the juice of half digested grass), higado (pork meat and liver sauteed with onions, garlic and bell pepper), and other Ilocos delicacies. Make sure to get there early—food runs out before noon.

If you like al fresco breakfasts, look for the itinerant livestock markets (Wednesday mornings in Badoc, Sunday mornings in Batac) and sample fresh carabao meat carpaccio—sliced into bloody red cubes mixed with onions and ginger, and doused with boiled bile, sukang Iluko and salt. The half-cooked variant is called imbaliktad. The other meat offerings in Dawang’s menu are usually offered as well.

When visiting the Luna Shrine in Badoc, make a side trip to Mino’s, a short two blocks away. Chef de cuisine Giacomo Iavarone and Manang Ida prepare home-made ham, bacon, anchovies served in authentic Italian style pizzas and pastas—at unreasonably cheap prices. Get there before the crowd discovers this gem of a place, and the owners are forced to increase prices. Closed on Sundays. Mino also caters, but only within Ilocos Norte. The tiramisu, crema, and Macedonia are an excellent end to his fabulous meals. Its address is No. 1 Barangay Canaan, Badoc. Yet another sign that Ilocos Norte is the promised land.

If you’re into kakanin, Barangay Pias in Currimao is the place to be—get your fill of tinupig, dudol, patupat, linapet, puto, kutsinta at fire sale prices. The delicacies are also available in practically all of the towns on market days. Sarrat also boasts the best sapin-sapin, but sadly, only for the savvy—the goodies are made only on special order. The cassava cakes of Dingras are justly famous, and there are now tinupig variants, made from the root crop.

San Nicolas also has itinerant vendors selling carioca made of purple glutinous rice, called ballatinaw. Further north, Bangui boasts its mysteriously named Chinese bibingka, made of glutinous rice with a peanut filling—a distant relative of the kalamay.

The town of Pasuquin takes pride in its original biscocho made from soft, anise-flavored bread. It comes from an old Spanish recipe that has been copied but never equalled. There are rumors that the bakery, recipe, house and all are for sale—another reason to seek out this popular bread. The soft bread is best eaten with cheese spread, sardines straight from the can, or condensed milk, while still hot from the oven. Shorestop, a restaurant immediately south of the town, offers biscocho sandwiches, with its original fillings—longanisa, tuna and chicken.

If you want seafood, drive all the way north to Barangay Gaoa in Pagudpud for fresh fish, pitik, lobsters, and other seafood. The village of Davila in Pasuquin is the source of dorado (the Hawaiian mahi-mahi) and bonito (dumadara in the vernacular). The San Nicolas public market is open every day, and its fish section is acknowledged as the best source of seafood up north.
What food guide is complete without bagnet and longganisa? Each town insists that its produce are the best, but the more popular meat products are available at the Batac and Laoag public markets (longganisa and bagnet), although San Nicolas is a contender for best bagnet as well. The best sauce for longanisa is sili with sukang Iluko, and the best dip for bagnet is the old reliable KBL (kamatis, bagoong and lasona).

The coastal towns of Currimao, Burgos, Bangui and Pagudpud are also well known for seaweeds. For salads, the pokpoklo is best served with sliced tomatoes, just like its more famous cousin the ar-arosip (lato to Visayans, the seaweed that comes in grape like bunches). The black, fragrant gamet, the seaweed called nori by the Japanese, is gathered on the shores of Burgos during the cold months.

What to buy

Abel Iloco has had a following for years. Look into your grandparents’ baul or aparador, and chances are, you will find an Ilocano blanket or two. The same sturdy and virtually indestructible fabric is still being made by the weavers of Sarrat, Paoay and Pinili. The high-end items can be found at Sarusar, the souvenir shop of Museo Ilocos Norte located immediately west of the provincial capitol. T-shirts, native baskets and other collectibles and foodstuffs, are also on sale.

The markets in Laoag (open everyday), and Paoay (Tuesday and Saturday mornings) have relatively extensive abel offerings. The weavers’ cooperatives in Nagbacalan by Paoay Lake are good sources for abel (ask for the shops of Manang Charito Cariaga or Manang Cely Domingo).

Saramsam Cafe in Laoag is also a consignment cafe that offers wooden bauls, altar tables, chairs, glass and silver items, among others—enjoy some shopping after a filling repast or snack.

The more adventurous can look for dried venison at the Solsona market on weekends, as well as native baskets, handicraft, and fresh produce (purple glutinous rice called ballatinaw in the vernacular, pinipig, ube, vegetables, and fruits). Roadside stalls in Pasuquin sell high-quality refined salt, with gallon jars of vinegar and freshly harvested bunches of garlic and onions. The wild mushrooms called uong are available during the rainy months, while fire ant eggs (abuus) are commonly seen during the summer. Natural honey is also collected during the warm months, but generally available most of the year.

The cloistered Carmelite nuns of Laoag (their convent is right beside the bishop’s residence) prepare very good preserves (candied kamias, tamarind, sweetened bits of communion host cuttings). If you are willing to wait, the octogenarian nuns offer handmade linens and church vestments too.

The persistent shopper will find unusual items in unlikely places. The possibilities are limited only by your imagination. Visit and discover the insider’s Ilocos Norte.

Additional things to eat

The original pinakbet pizza was first offered by Herencia Cafe in Paoay, located right across the famous church. They also developed the dinuguan and bagnet variants which have also received quite a following. While others may claim to be first, Herencia Cafe has the TV footage from various programs and features to prove that its products are the real McCoy.

Saramsam Café in Laoag City has also developed a Poque Poque variant—topped with the innocent mix of grilled eggplants cooked omelet style with onions, tomatoes and eggs, along with their inkalti, which is essentially carioca cooked on the table a la fondue.

Green mango slices, karmay, singkamas, siniguelas, manibalang na papaya, green balayang bananas and other local fruits are soaked in sukang Iluko, and called by the collective name inartem. A perfect foil to the oily flavors of barbecued and fried meats. Many of the inartem stalls can be found in front of the Central Elementary School in downtown Laoag, and by the national high school grounds. Local markets in every town would usually have a place devoted to inartem.

During the long hot summer, what can be more refreshing than a cool glass of halo-halo? The Ilocano variant is suitably austere, made with limited ingredients—banana (boiled or fresh), with camote, kaong, sago, fresh corn, buko, gelatin or agar-agar, plus the local melon called murod (which gives it the flavor and aroma that the Ilocano identifies as their halo-halo).

The latter replaces the cloying aroma and sweetness of langka which is absent in the local halo-halo.

Things to do

The smaller children can experience snorkeling in the placid waters of Mairaira, Pagudpud, while the teenagers and grown ups sample surfing farther offshore. Kapuluan Resort, located near Dos Hermanos at the far end of the Blue Lagoon, offers comfortable accommodations for serious surfers and divers.

Mothers would love the farmgate prices of local vegetables (P20 per kilo of sun-ripened tomatoes in the farms by the highway at Currimao, and Sarrat). The market offerings are slightly more expensive but already at bargain prices. This is Ilocos, where consumers know everything about value for money.

History and culture buffs will appreciate the heritage structures all over—from the much photographed Paoay Church, the Dingras Church ruins, the reconstructed Luna Shrine, the still functioning Cape Bojeador lighthouse, Tobacco Monopoly Marker, Museo Ilocos Norte in a refurbished tabacalera. Those interested in pilgrimages will find the Milagrosa of Badoc a worthy destination.

Trekkers and mountain bikers will love the hills in the eastern towns, but specially the charming hanging bridges of Adams. The rough but well-kept road to Adams is an experience in itself, with several rivers running its length. The sand dunes are also a hit—being the only one in the Philippines. And lately, the windmills of Bangui are gaining attention for the many possibilities of clean energy, and the beautiful silhouette of the turbines against the blue seas.

There is something for everyone in this province.

Much of Ilocos Norte remains unexplored, and the intrepid traveler will find something unique in each visit.

Guling Guling of Paoay

2008-02-06T18:51:00.000-08:00

Rio in Brazil is famous for the Samba orgy that is Mardi Gras. New Orleans celebrates Fat Tuesday with much revelry and drinking. Paoay, Ilocos Norte, in keeping with its deep Catholic roots, has a much more somber festivity called Guling Guling -- after the white cross marked on the foreheads of its inhabitants on the Tuesday before Ash Wednesday. It is a day of dancing and drinking too (of the native basi, made from sugar cane juice), with native rice cakes called dudol and impaltao also prepared.

Being one of the centers of abel loomweaving, the Paoayenos don native costumes, and dance to the tune of a graceful kumintang. Everyone brings out their Sunday finery, with some of the older ladies showing off their gold tamburins and crosses.

Talking with British guests, it was interesting to learn that the day before Ash Wednesday is called Shrove Tuesday, when the British would clean up the flour and oil in their cupboards--and make all the pancakes they can. It is the last day prior to the 40 days of fasting in Lent, hence people would use up the eggs and flour, cleaning up the larder, as well as cleaning up "spiritually."

Perhaps there are other towns in the Philippines that have a similar practice. It is yet another part of the rich heritage of our Spanish, and Catholic, colonial past.

First Ilocos Norte Christmas Festival

2008-01-17T00:08:00.000-08:00

The Province of Ilocos Norte celebrated its First Christmas Festival on the 21st of December 2007 with an adult choir competition, a lantern parade and contest, and food fair featuring local delicacies of the holiday season. It was organized by the Office of Governor Michael M. Keon, through the Provincial Tourism Office headed by Rene E. Guatlo and his assistant Joegie B. Jimenez, in cooperation with the Department of Tourism Region 1, and Provincial Board members Yvonne Ranada (head of HARALIN), and Portia Respicio Salenda (Tourism Committee chair). The finals for Zoom IN, a photography contest sponsored by the Office of Board Member Kris Ablan, in cooperation with the DOT sub-office in Laoag and the Provincial Tourism Office, also coincided with the festival.

Adult choirs from ten towns and Laoag City competed in a colorful program at the Provincial Auditorium attended by no less than Governor Michael M. Keon, together with Board Members Yvonne Ranada, Dr. Robert Castro, Engr. Albert Chua, Portia Respicio Salenda, PPDO Engr. Pedro Agcaoili Jr., Provincial Treasurer Mrs. Josie Calajate, and other department representatives were also present. Pagudpud, Burgos, Pasuquin, Vintar, Sarrat, Laoag City, San Nicolas, Dingras, Piddig, Paoay and Currimao participated in the choir competition, with Mayor and Mrs. Marlon Sales (Pagudpud), Mrs. Imelda Garcia (Burgos), Mayor Generoso Aquino (Piddig), Mayor Marynette Romero Gamboa (Dingras), Mayor Boying Valdez (San Nicolas) leading their respective choirs. Mayor Edito Balintona likewise witnessed the performance of the Sarrat choir.

The board of judges, chaired by Mrs. Ma. Lourdes Hermo, choir master and conductor of the Ateneo de Manila College Glee Club, with members Ms. Febe Bose of the Narvacan National High School, and regional Dr. Miriam Najera, was impressed with the quality of singing, and the free choice pieces which were mostly Ilocano Christmas songs. The contest piece, Pasko na Sinta Ko, was an especially poignant and nostalgic piece, suited to the sentiments of the season.

Laoag City emerged as champion , with Sarrat placing second, and Pagudpud, third. The rest were declared runners up, with no definite ranking—in acknowledgement of the excellent performances of all the participants.

The lantern parade and competition was likewise well attended, with 18 LGUs and three NGOs represented. The entries creatively used indigenous materials such as mongo, corn, rice, and other grains; coconut fruit, fronds and leaves; even the lowly walis tambo. Mrs. Ma. Lourdes Hermo and Ilocos Times writer Steve Barreiro served as judges for the contest.

The first prize was won by Dingras, which innovatively used the star shape as a base for a stylized Belen, with wood pieces serving as figures for the nativity scene. Bangui, which featured a lighted windmill as theme, won the second prize, while Laoag and Adams tied for third. The Barangay Health workers was one of the largest group of participants with several hundred in attendance; they likewise had the largest lantern. Mayor Basi Cimatu of Bangui, Mayor Cris Garcia of Burgos, Mayor Aldrin Garvida of Nueva Era, Mayor Edito Balintona of Sarrat, Mayor Marynette Gamboa of Dingras, Mayor Generoso Aquino of Piddig, Mayor Jose Foronda of Vintar, Mayor Francis Espiritu Jr. of Dumalneg, accompanied their municipalities’ lantern entries during the parade which started at the Marcos Stadium and culminated at the provincial capitol grounds.

The food fair at the Capitol driveway was well attended, with participation by 12 municipalities—Pagudpud, Bangui, Nueva Era, Dingras, San Nicolas, Batac, Adams, Sarrat, Vintar, Currimao, Marcos, Laoag. HARALIN, led by Provincial Board Member Yvonne Ranada, helped organize the food fair, with offerings from the main food and beverage establishments in Laoag City. Employees of the province, elected officials and visitors enjoyed the traditional holiday delicacies like tinupig, sapin-sapin, suman, pichi-pichi, bibingka—as well as hard to find items like red mountain rice and kamangeg. Batac’s famous empanada, San Nicolas bagnet, and variations of the garlic-flavored Ilocos longanisa were also in abundance.

The awarding ceremony was held in front of the Capitol, with Governor Keon, Vice Governor Chua, members of the provincial board, and municipal mayors in attendance. It was graced by the presence of Miss Teen Hawaii Melissa McMurray who flew in under the auspices of the United Filipino Council of Hawaii—which sponsored the cash prizes for the choir and lantern competitions. The ceremony was capped by an extended fireworks display sponsored by Fort Ilocandia Resort and Casino.

The Festival featured lighted parol from the various government units and NGOs, in keeping with the name of the provincial capital—Laoag—Ilocano for “light.” It is hoped that the light of the lanterns will guide the way for prosperity and progress in this part of the North, and that the voices of the choirs will unite the entire province in one harmonious melody.

Sitio Remedios

2008-01-16T01:42:00.000-08:00

Ilocano wanderlust is well known, with the first sugarcane field workers leaving for Hawaii from the Ilocos provinces more than a century ago. Go to any world capital—Hong Kong, London, New York, Los Angeles, Rome, —and you will hear Ilocano spoken in their parks and churches on any Sunday. But no matter how far away he travels the Ilocano will invariably look back to the simple, unpretentious balay on some dusty road in that far-away hometown.

The hallmark of the Ilocos Norte home is its simplicity, its relatively modest dimensions. It usually has one or two bedrooms, in addition to the living and dining rooms, a kitchen, and perhaps a veranda or porch. Ilocos furniture is likewise distinguished by its spare lines, with little or no ornamentation, and its use of choice hard woods – narra, molave, balayong or sagat. Even the plants around the Ilocano home are ordinary—San Francisco, bougainvillea, maguey, yucca, cacti and other succulents, even the lowly gabi.

Traditional Iloco food—the abrao (or dinengdeng), pakbet, varied ensaladas—are similarly simple and easy to prepare, with minimal handling and preparation. Malungay and saluyot are the quintessentially Ilocano vegetables—cheap, plentiful, nutritious, and versatile. The longevity of the Ilocano is usually attributed to the simple fare that he never tires of—boiled vegetables and grilled or steamed fish, with the occasional meat dish.

Ironically, these elements of modesty and simplicity are what make Sitio Remedios, the latest travel destination in Ilocos Norte, special. Visitors remark that arriving at the Sitio gives them a feeling of calm, or peace—of going back to a half forgotten way of life that is leisurely, peaceful and simple. A chair of aparador would remind them of their grandparents’ house; a dish would bring back memories of a family get together held decades earlier, or a beloved aunt who used to prepare it exactly the same way.

Heritage Village by the South China Sea

The seven balays (houses) in the Sitio are preserved mid-20th century structures that used to dot the Ilocos Norte countryside. Many are now gone, having been demolished, as returning Overseas Filipino Workers from the United States, Europe and other places, are tearing down their old homes to make way for larger cement structures that are largely Mediterranean inspired. Observing this phenomenon during his high school class' golden reunion in December 2005, Dr. Joven R. Cuanang of Batac decided to salvage as many of these houses as he could, and rebuild them at his beachside property in Currimao.

The vision became a reality with the help of the doctor's friends, who scoured the province for old wooden houses being sold, and the capable hands of Architect Rex Hofilena. He interpreted the doctor's idea as a Sitio, a small community centered on a church (the Capilla San Miguel) at the highest point in the property, and a plaza (the Plaza Manzanilla). The seven houses that circle the church and plaza are named after the towns where they were sourced—Batac, Piddig, Dingras, Bacarra, Vintar, San Nicolas and Pasuquin. A total of eleven air-conditioned bedrooms can accommodate up to 30-plus adults. A function hall—Sentro Iloco—serves as the meeting venue for seminars and workshops, while the Cloisters—two large rooms that serve as dormitories offer a more economical alternative for up to 20 persons. With these amenities complete, the Sitio is ready to accept groups of up to 50 plus adults for executive planning sessions, seminars and workshops. The chapel and plaza are likewise suitable venues for romantic beach weddings, family reunions, and other functions. Individual guests who want to have a restful weekend are of course welcome.

Pride of Place

Sitio Remedios is not a luxury resort. Neither is it a museum of the best furniture or accessories available in Ilocos. What Sitio Remedios offers is a living environment that seeks to recapture the feel of a bygone era—a place where neighbors know one another, and care for each other in a community that is inspired by a shared history, tradition, and faith. "It's about pride of place," the doctor beams, "about knowing who we are, where we came from, and what we want to do with our lives." Little wonder then that friends who come to visit (for all who visit inevitably get to know each other) begin to call the balay they occupy "our house."

Healing the Soul

Many have come to visit Sitio Remedios—balikbayans, as well as intrepid foreigners looking for a new experience. Each one left with a different memory of Sitio—some found the food intriguing, some liked the furniture, some loved the idea of preserving a vanishing heritage. The doctor heard from a friend in New York about how a Sitio guest was gushing about eating kaimito after breakfast—because the kaimito was hand-picked from the tree at the plaza just moments earlier. A ten-year old boy from Canada declared Sitio "better than Christmas!" Some who came were not impressed, but that is also fine because it was never the intention to impress. In this time of internet and cable TV, Sitio hopes to rekindle interest in the lost art of conversation— families and friends together, creating tomorrow's memories.

There are no television sets, no radio or newspapers in Sitio Remedios. For people who want to literally get away for a few days, Sitio Remedios offers the luxury of being inaccessible. The Ablon Spa, named after the Ilocano term for healing through massage, provides a soothing hilot experience for bodies that seek pampering.

True to its name, the Sitio provides the cure, the remedy for tired souls that need to be refreshed. As the precocious twelve-year old girl from Paris wrote in the guest book: "Sitio Remedios is a jewel amongst jewels—it's what the soul wants."

Pasuquin Biscocho

2008-01-15T20:19:00.000-08:00

Since I was a kid, my cousins have been making biscocho at the Pasuquin Bakery. Their product, to quote a friend, has become "an edible landmark" of the province, as it is known far and wide--reaching the far corners of the world, wherever there are Ilocanos.

Unlike most biscocho which is made using stale leftover bread, Pasuquin biscocho is made using freshly baked bread, specifically made to be toasted. And unlike the usual biscocho, Pasuquin biscocho is not sweet. Rather, it is flavored with anise (the same flavor you taste in absinthe). My cousins tell me the recipe was made by one town old-timer, the late Timot Josue, who was trained in one of the Spanish style panaderias of colonial Manila. His assistants, Sixto and Estefania Salmon, deduced both the ingredients and the process through careful observation and measurements.

Lolo Sixto also served as baker to the American forces temporarily stationed at Victory Road, south of the poblacion, after World War II. From his savings, he put up what is now called the Pasuquin Bakery, currently being managed by his only child, Manang Esperanza Alvarez, better known as Pansing.

Practically every bus, jeepney and private vehicle makes an obligatory stop at the Pasuquin Bakery, with everyone ordering biscocho. Because of its immense popularity, the freshly baked soft bread is now also on sale--perfect with cheese, or condensed milk, or Spanish style sardines. An enterprising neighbor now sells biscocho sandwiches at Shore Stop, right across the Shell gas station immediately south of the poblacion, on the way to Bacarra and Laoag.

The Hills of Pasuquin

2008-01-15T20:08:00.000-08:00

The other weekend, I went around the eastern part of Pasuquin, my hometown. First stop was Tadao, on the northeast corner where Bimmaka hill is located. Access is through well-kept dirt roads, occasionally paved at strategic areas (where road goes uphill, or where it crosses creeks), with beautiful views of the hills and mountains of Vintar to the east, Sapat to the north, and the distant sea to the west.

There is a small valley between the poblacion and Tadao, reportedly once part of a large encomienda that supported the parish church, but now devoted to agriculture. My sources tell me there was a pre-war manganese mining operation operated by Japanese in Bimmaka. There was also a post-war logging concession operated by one of the pioneering Chinese families in the town.

Right beside the barangay hall (with requisite day care and basketball court) is a kiln for terra cotta products. Sadly, the place looked abandoned, which is a pity, considering the quality of their clay. I plan to go back and bring terra cotta artisans to help the locals improve on their traditional earthen pots and bricks.

To the southeast of the town are other hillside barangays which are also accessed through well-maintained dirt roads. The view from Sta. Catalina, again only a few kilometers from the border with Vintar, is also spectacular--the blue sea to the west, and the green and blue mountains to the east.

It's Not Just Saud and Mairaira

2008-01-13T20:18:00.000-08:00

Spent the day in Pagudpud this Sunday--leisurely drive before noon, with lunch at carinderia near town plaza. The paksiw na local galunggong (called Baraniti here) cooked in native onions and tomatoes--was just heavenly. The pork adobo was very dry, while the adobong sili with saluyot was its perfect counterpoint. The imbaliktad (beef kinilaw boiled for a few seconds to half cook the meat) was just capriccio.

From town center, it's a twenty minute drive to Barangay Ayoyo--through well-kept dirt roads with wonderful views of the surf and sea--a small promontory here with Australian sheep (!) grazing on the grass between crags and cracks; a pebble beach on one side, while the view to the hills reminds you of a savannah. There's a resort
called Hidden Treasure on a beautiful cliff, but they really should hide that resort until they make a better design. The fake wood handrails and makeshift cottages just won't do.

Barangay Ayoyo's main livelihood is fishing, but you have to go very very early morning as they bring the catch to the town market at dawn. They also make beautiful and sturdy sleeping mats from a hardy plant called budak--the spiny and thorny plant with pineapple-like fruits. They remove the thorns using nylon string, then cut the leaves into three long strands. The strands are then softened using a dull knife, and dried prior to weaving, which is done by hand by the village women. They also want to make bags, fans and other items, but do not have the know-how.

Beside Ayoyo is Caunayan--where the surf is endless, and where more than twenty submarines landed on secret missions bringing in materiel and personnel to the Ilocos Norte guerillas during the last days of World War II. If you have been to Pagudpud, and know Saud Beach and Mairaira, these are just two more new places to see during your next visit.

The hills and mountains to the east of Ilocos Norte are another thing altogether. I hear they have beautiful native baskets,dried venison and alingo (baboy damo). Something to look forward to on other weekends.

Ilocano Nation Visits Salcedo Market

2007-12-17T06:01:00.000-08:00

Ilocos Norte was the first province featured in the highly successful Salcedo Community Market on 15 December 2007. Organized in cooperation with the provincial government of Ilocos Norte, and the Gameng Foundation, the fair highlighted food, arts and crafts and tourist destinations of the True North.

Ilocano food--pakbet, dinardaraan, insarabasab--were the featured dishes in cooking demos conducted by the Ablan family cooks, and the Ms. Glenda Barreto of Via Mare, who presented her own version of pakbet salad consisting of blanched pakbet vegetables with a bagoong-calamansi-sukang iloco dressing. Many enjoyed tasting both traditional dishes and the "improvements" on the old recipes.

Abel weaves, baskets, bags, among others, were likewise offered--to introduce the native arts and crafts of the province. Cornick, banana, camote and taro chips, peanuts, and the famous Pasuquin biscocho were also available. The homemade tupig, the traditional harbinger of the holiday mood, was also a hit, with limited stocks sold out within two hours of opening. Some had to wait for additional deliveries of bagnet and longanisa, as the initial supply was unable to keep up with the demand.

Ilocos Norte resorts, hotels and other destinations were also featured through posters, videos and brochures in the booth of the Provincial Tourism Office. Ms. Irene Marcos Araneta, anak ti Batac, and tourism ambassador of goodwill, was an encouraging presence throughout the one-day fair, braving the heat with her kailian.

All told, it was a fun day for Ilocanos and their friends, as they celebrated the end of the year, in the event properly called PANAGGAPAS-The Ilocano Harvest.

People are Talking

2007-11-08T18:13:00.000-08:00

Ilocos Norte has always been there, a silent presence at the northwest corner of Luzon, known as the hometown of the "Da Apo," the genius behind Martial Law. Curiously, Da Apo's legacy is more and more appreciated the farther we get from '86, with the general sentiment being "mabuti pa noon," but this can be a reflection of the disappointments that followed. Or maybe Lee Kuan Yew is right, Asians need strong leaders, even dictators, and that "too much democracy"can be a problem.

But I digress.

Lately, Ilocos Norte destinations are being featured in print and TV--places like Pagudpud, the perennial favorite; the windmills at Bangui (many thanks to Regine in sinuous garment swinging by the beach); the usual churches like Sarrat and Paoay; the Luna Shrine in Badoc (happy 150th Maestro Juan!); Fort Ilocandia; and the small resort called Sitio Remedios.

Even humble Ilocano fare with a twist is catching people's attention--the perennial pinakbet has been worked into a pizza by the Herencia Cafe in Paoay, while Saramsam in Laoag has experimented with Poque-Poque pizza, empanada negra (filled with dinuguan), among other things. C&E has come up with a bagnet pizza; while La Preciosa has people raving over abrao (vegetables in fish broth), insarabsab (grilled pig ears and cheeks-the Ilocano variation of sisig), sinanglao or paksiw (cow or goat sweetmeats in broth) and other local fare. Dawang's in San Nicolas is the turo-turo of choice, closely followed by its neighbor Lidamero's, with various grilled offerings. The livestock markets in Badoc (Wednesdays) and Batac (Sundays) are occasions for sampling kilawin (raw carabao meat with grated ginger doused with papait or bile), which can be brought to a quick boil (in which case it is called imbaliktad); lengua estofada; dinardaraan; higado; and other meat specialties.

Trip na Trip began its fifth season in September with a feature on Ilocos Norte. Sports Unlimited highlighted the surfers' paradise that is Mairaira (or Blue Lagoon) in Pagudpud. Marc Logan in TV Patrol featured the newly developed pizzas mentioned above.

U.S. Ambassador Kristie Kenney visited the province in mid-September, staying at the Saud Beach Resort in Pagudpud. Coincidentally, this was right after Saud Beach was acknowledged as Asia's Top Beach by an Australian travel writer. Newly-posted PROC Ambassador Song Tao made Ilocos Norte his first out of town destination; spending four days in the province.

The ZONTA Club held a regional conference in Laoag with delegates from four countries--another first for Ilocos Norte. Medical groups--orthopedic surgeons, neurosurgeons, and other specialists--have also held regional and national conventions in the province. As did the United Architects of the Philippines.

The National Historical Institute installed a marker at the century-old Cape Bojeador Lighthouse in Burgos; and marked the 150th birthday of painter Juan Luna in fitting ceremonies at his birthplace in Badoc, an event that was also honored with a commemorative stamp. The province likewise remembered the bicentennial of the Basi Revolt that started in Piddig, and the birthday of Josefa Llanes Escoda, suffragist and founder of the Girl Scouts of the Philippines.

All these activities, and the renewed interest of media, will surely augur well for tourism in the province.

Abel Iloko

2007-11-08T00:56:00.000-08:00

Abel is the Ilocano term that refers to the process of weaving, while inabel is the final woven product (although the terms are now used interchangeably). Loom weaving was prevalent when people had to make their own clothing and blankets using spun cotton from the cotton plants they themselves grew. With the advent of cheap machine made cloth, this once thriving industry collapsed, and there are now fewer sources.

For Ilocanos, the banderado is the simplest design of all – consisting of two-tone stripes on the sides, or in the middle of the fabric. This is probably one of the oldest designs, one that is slowly going out of favor, most users now preferring newer and more elaborate designs. In Ilocos Sur, the design is called cantarinis, a material originally used for sailcloths. Binakol, with its op-art swirls called kosikos, is another old but sophisticated abel design.

While the patterns of Ilocano abel are similar, there are subtle differences in color combinations, and the thickness of the weave—from gossamer mosquito nets to thick brocades and embroidery. There are likewise myriad shapes—pineapples, grapes, turkeys, horses, even the two-headed eagle (which is not really as strange as it seems because the bird is also one of the symbols of the Augustinians, who were among the first missionaries in the north). In the story of Lam-ang the epic Ilocano hero, he has a two-headed chicken called Gik-gik for a pet—suggesting that the image of the two headed eagle was appropriated to illustrate the mythical bird.

The most sophisticated abels are the monotones with very fine, and subtle patterns (tiny diamonds within diamonds, circles, squares and other geometric shapes). “Insukit” refers to the patterns “inserted” during the weaving process, the most common ones being diamonds, rositas (after the elaborate flower-like design used for rings and earrings), ik-ikan (fish), among others. “Palawlaw” refers to the border design that goes “around” the blanket.

Ilocos Norte has a few remaining weaving centers, but as the weavers grow older, the prospects for sustaining loom weaving are dim. The Silangan Foundation for the Arts, Culture and Ecology, in cooperation with The Sitio Remedios Heritage Corporation, is helping sustain small weavers and cooperatives by buying their production, and selling them in a few exclusive outlets, including the Boston and Pinto Art Galleries.

Ilocano Food

2007-11-07T23:53:00.000-08:00

The Ilocos provinces [Pangasinan, La Union, Ilocos Sur, Abra (technically Cordillera Autonomous Region but Ilocos for our purpose) and Ilocos Norte] are known for the industry of its people, and the narrow strip of land between the mountains of the Cordilleras, and the South China sea from which they eke out a living. The terrain is unforgiving—rocky and unirrigated, sandy land; hot summers and severe cold seasons; limited crops. It is perhaps because of these conditions that Ilocanos became one of the early migrants—moving in as pioneers in Mindanao and practically every other province, as well as points abroad, beginning with Hawaii in 1906 as the first group of sugarcane workers.

The food is simple—honest Ilocano fare of abrao (assorted seasonal vegetables, typically malunggay, and that quintessentially Ilocano vegetable, saluyot, boiled in a bagoong and fish broth), pakbet, grilled and steamed fish and other seafood, seaweed salads garnished with sliced tomatoes, the sinful bagnet with accompanying KBL (kamatis, bagoong and lasona—sliced tomatoes and spring onions with fish sauce), dessert would consist of fresh fruits in season, and local rice cakes (tupig, patupat, linapet, dudol) and sesame seeds in molasses (linga), accompanied by coffee or native chocolate.

Occasionally, there would be more exotic fare—abuos—giant ants’ eggs gathered in the forest, gamet—the dark seaweed that the Japanese call nori, ipon—tiny fish in season during the cold months, very similar to dulong. There are also ordinary foods with unusual names—the breakfast fare called poki-poki (also poqui-poqui), an innocent omelet made of eggplant sautéed with garlic, onions, tomatoes, and eggs; and vegetables with racy names: kabatiti (Tagalog patola, the vegetable served with misua), utong (string beans) to name two.

Marunggay (malunggay to Tagalog speakers) deserves special mention for its versatility—the leaves are a staple for abrao, being available year round. The flowers are equally favored for salads, as are the tender fruit (called mara-utong as it resembles thin string beans), and the mature fruit.

The afternoon rainshowers and thunderstorms of the rainy months, bring yet another delicacy—the tasty uong, wild mushrooms that are found the day after the thunderstorms. Their delicate earthy flavor makes for a perfect abrao, or even more decadent, the adobo of pure uong flavored only with salt and garlic.

The freshwater fish called bukto, from the Bacarra river, was my grandfather’s personal favorite. He loved them cooked paksiw style, or what we call nilengta in Ilocano. Because the fish are small, and somewhat bony, it is even better to deep fry them to a crisp, and eat whole, bones and all. On rainy days, he would invariably request for balatong, mongo to you Tagalogs, usually with malunggay or ampalaya leaves, and talong strips. The Ilocano balatong is boiled, not guisado, but is less soupy than the Tagalog version. In the old days, grilled fish or boiled shrimps would be used for flavoring, but bagnet is becoming increasingly popular of late.

Bagnet is the Ilocano version of the lechon kawali—pork squares first boiled in a saline solution, air dried, then deep fried twice until they are crisp and golden. In the old days, the cooked bagnet was stored in burnay (stoneware jars) filled to the brim with the pork oil, which solidifies into lard as it cools. The lard was used to re-fry the pork when needed for flavoring vegetable dishes such as the pinakbet, or pancit. Lately, it has become a decadent dish on its own.

The Ilocano adobo and dinuguan are dry compared to the Tagalog or Pampango versions. This is probably done to make the food keep longer. Both use liberal amounts of vinegar, again to preserve the food for longer periods, the same principle used in making the Ilocos longanisa.

There is a wide range of rice and glutinous rice delicacies, from the familiar puto, kutsinta, tinupig, and the less well-known patupat, binagkat, linapet, and the totally exotic impaltao, incalti, dudol among many others. Patupat is boiled glutinous rice lightly flavored with salt (in some cases, pepper as well) and wrapped in banana leaves to a triangular shape. Binagkat is the Ilocano puto maya—boiled glutinous rice flavored with molasses and coconut oil. Linapet a sweet version of the patupat, also wrapped in banana leaves. The rare and sinful impaltao, a favorite of Ethel S. Timbol, is water soaked malagkit encased in pouches made of bamboo strips, which is later cooked in boiling sugar cane juice (bennal). It is an occasional treat, made only during the sugarcane harvest season. Incalti is the generic term used for the process of cooking and sweetening food items in sugarcane juice—balls of ground glutinous rice (larger versions of the Tagalog bilo-bilo) are the most common ingredient for incalti, but there are more unusual items used as well, such as the trunk of the male papaya. Dudol is a mixture of ground glutinous rice flour, water and sugarcane juice, that is laboriously mixed by hand as it cooks over a slow fire—reminiscent of the procedure for making haleya.

One of the Ilocano snack foods that has become popular lately is popped corn flavored with garlic—what is now known as “cornick” or “chichacorn.” It was developed many years ago in Paoay, and the Nana Rosa brand is the favorite among people in the know. The barrio that produces cornick has since branched out to other items—honey coated banana, camote and taro chips, with a variant of garlic flavored camote and taro chips.

Batac empanada and miki have become province-wide favorites, served in almost every town plaza. Empanada is garlic longanisa with grated green papaya or mashed mongo or togue (mongo sprouts), wrapped in annatto colored dough made of ground rice, and deep fried to a crisp. It is often served with a vinegar and garlic sauce. Miki is home made noodles in a thick, chicken-flavored broth, also colored with annatto, the special topped with bagnet cracklings.

Being a coastal province, Ilocos Norte is blessed with an abundance of the sea’s bounty—lapu-lapu, maya-maya, dorado, tanguigui, lobsters, curacha (or pitik, locally called kusimay), the more exotic sungayan (thick skinned black fish with a horn on its forehead, suitable for grilling) and ilek (with delicately flavored oily meat that is heavenly when grilled to perfection). Seaweeds are also abundant, from the common ar-arusip (lato to Visayans), to the indigenous pokpoklo, and gamet (what the Japanese call nori—used to wrap sushi).

The Ilocano is not a finicky eater, a fact attested to by his practice of flavoring boiled beef, carabao or goat sweetmeats with the bile and the juice of partially digested grass in the animal’s intestines—a dish variously called papaitan, sinanglao or paksiw in its many variations. He also eats the leaves and fruit of the parya (Tagalog ampalaya), favoring the small native variety that is especially bitter. Food critic and cultural researcher Doreen Fernandez noted this predilection for bitter food among the Ilocanos, saying that we understand the sweetness that follows after eating bitter food.

It is often said that we are what we eat. The foods of the northern provinces speak eloquently of the native qualities of the Ilocano—his famous thrift, the ability to make do and utilize all available resources, as well as his close affinity to the earth, and the rhythm of the changing seasons.

How to Get to Ilocos Norte

2007-11-07T23:08:00.000-08:00

There are ten flights (Airbus 150 service) to Laoag every week--PAL every day, and Cebu Pacific on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays. Fare fluctuates from around P1,000 one way to more than P4,000 for business class seats. Cebu Pacific is generally cheaper, but PAL also has budget fares, they're probably just a little more difficult to come by.

There are no taxis or other public utility vehicles at the Laoag Airport. Visitors are advised to arrange transport with the hotels or resorts they book in the province. There are occasional tricycles and jeepneys, but the fares quoted will usually be jacked up. Best to take the jeep, and haggle to P30-P50 per head for the short ride from the airport to Laoag City center. (The drivers will quote anywhere from P50 to P150.) Discussions are underway to resolve this problem, but for the meantime, enjoy the haggling.

Farinas Trans, Partas, Maria de Leon and other provincial bus lines ply the 500 kilometer route between Manila and Laoag, using air conditioned buses. Some have De Luxe buses that seat only 28 passengers--but these are often limited to two buses per day.

Within the city center, tricycle rides are usually P7 per person, but people usually pay P8 to P10. Calesa rides are also at P7 per person, but again, people give P10 per head, or P20 if riding alone (the calesa usually seats maximum of four). Visitors may also rent hourly or half-day. Remember to haggle and bargain.

From Laoag, visitors can choose to head north for the beaches and mountains; the east for Sarrat church and the valleys, rivers; or south for Batac, Paoay, Badoc and other points of interest.