The Province of Ilocos Norte celebrated its First Christmas Festival on the 21st of December 2007 with an adult choir competition, a lantern parade and contest, and food fair featuring local delicacies of the holiday season. It was organized by the Office of Governor Michael M. Keon, through the Provincial Tourism Office headed by Rene E. Guatlo and his assistant Joegie B. Jimenez, in cooperation with the Department of Tourism Region 1, and Provincial Board members Yvonne Ranada (head of HARALIN), and Portia Respicio Salenda (Tourism Committee chair). The finals for Zoom IN, a photography contest sponsored by the Office of Board Member Kris Ablan, in cooperation with the DOT sub-office in Laoag and the Provincial Tourism Office, also coincided with the festival.
Adult choirs from ten towns and Laoag City competed in a colorful program at the Provincial Auditorium attended by no less than Governor Michael M. Keon, together with Board Members Yvonne Ranada, Dr. Robert Castro, Engr. Albert Chua, Portia Respicio Salenda, PPDO Engr. Pedro Agcaoili Jr., Provincial Treasurer Mrs. Josie Calajate, and other department representatives were also present. Pagudpud, Burgos, Pasuquin, Vintar, Sarrat, Laoag City, San Nicolas, Dingras, Piddig, Paoay and Currimao participated in the choir competition, with Mayor and Mrs. Marlon Sales (Pagudpud), Mrs. Imelda Garcia (Burgos), Mayor Generoso Aquino (Piddig), Mayor Marynette Romero Gamboa (Dingras), Mayor Boying Valdez (San Nicolas) leading their respective choirs. Mayor Edito Balintona likewise witnessed the performance of the Sarrat choir.
The board of judges, chaired by Mrs. Ma. Lourdes Hermo, choir master and conductor of the Ateneo de Manila College Glee Club, with members Ms. Febe Bose of the Narvacan National High School, and regional Dr. Miriam Najera, was impressed with the quality of singing, and the free choice pieces which were mostly Ilocano Christmas songs. The contest piece, Pasko na Sinta Ko, was an especially poignant and nostalgic piece, suited to the sentiments of the season.
Laoag City emerged as champion , with Sarrat placing second, and Pagudpud, third. The rest were declared runners up, with no definite ranking—in acknowledgement of the excellent performances of all the participants.
The lantern parade and competition was likewise well attended, with 18 LGUs and three NGOs represented. The entries creatively used indigenous materials such as mongo, corn, rice, and other grains; coconut fruit, fronds and leaves; even the lowly walis tambo. Mrs. Ma. Lourdes Hermo and Ilocos Times writer Steve Barreiro served as judges for the contest.
The first prize was won by Dingras, which innovatively used the star shape as a base for a stylized Belen, with wood pieces serving as figures for the nativity scene. Bangui, which featured a lighted windmill as theme, won the second prize, while Laoag and Adams tied for third. The Barangay Health workers was one of the largest group of participants with several hundred in attendance; they likewise had the largest lantern. Mayor Basi Cimatu of Bangui, Mayor Cris Garcia of Burgos, Mayor Aldrin Garvida of Nueva Era, Mayor Edito Balintona of Sarrat, Mayor Marynette Gamboa of Dingras, Mayor Generoso Aquino of Piddig, Mayor Jose Foronda of Vintar, Mayor Francis Espiritu Jr. of Dumalneg, accompanied their municipalities’ lantern entries during the parade which started at the Marcos Stadium and culminated at the provincial capitol grounds.
The food fair at the Capitol driveway was well attended, with participation by 12 municipalities—Pagudpud, Bangui, Nueva Era, Dingras, San Nicolas, Batac, Adams, Sarrat, Vintar, Currimao, Marcos, Laoag. HARALIN, led by Provincial Board Member Yvonne Ranada, helped organize the food fair, with offerings from the main food and beverage establishments in Laoag City. Employees of the province, elected officials and visitors enjoyed the traditional holiday delicacies like tinupig, sapin-sapin, suman, pichi-pichi, bibingka—as well as hard to find items like red mountain rice and kamangeg. Batac’s famous empanada, San Nicolas bagnet, and variations of the garlic-flavored Ilocos longanisa were also in abundance.
The awarding ceremony was held in front of the Capitol, with Governor Keon, Vice Governor Chua, members of the provincial board, and municipal mayors in attendance. It was graced by the presence of Miss Teen Hawaii Melissa McMurray who flew in under the auspices of the United Filipino Council of Hawaii—which sponsored the cash prizes for the choir and lantern competitions. The ceremony was capped by an extended fireworks display sponsored by Fort Ilocandia Resort and Casino.
The Festival featured lighted parol from the various government units and NGOs, in keeping with the name of the provincial capital—Laoag—Ilocano for “light.” It is hoped that the light of the lanterns will guide the way for prosperity and progress in this part of the North, and that the voices of the choirs will unite the entire province in one harmonious melody.
Thursday, January 17, 2008
Wednesday, January 16, 2008
Sitio Remedios
Ilocano wanderlust is well known, with the first sugarcane field workers leaving for Hawaii from the Ilocos provinces more than a century ago. Go to any world capital—Hong Kong, London, New York, Los Angeles, Rome, —and you will hear Ilocano spoken in their parks and churches on any Sunday. But no matter how far away he travels the Ilocano will invariably look back to the simple, unpretentious balay on some dusty road in that far-away hometown.
The hallmark of the Ilocos Norte home is its simplicity, its relatively modest dimensions. It usually has one or two bedrooms, in addition to the living and dining rooms, a kitchen, and perhaps a veranda or porch. Ilocos furniture is likewise distinguished by its spare lines, with little or no ornamentation, and its use of choice hard woods – narra, molave, balayong or sagat. Even the plants around the Ilocano home are ordinary—San Francisco, bougainvillea, maguey, yucca, cacti and other succulents, even the lowly gabi.
Traditional Iloco food—the abrao (or dinengdeng), pakbet, varied ensaladas—are similarly simple and easy to prepare, with minimal handling and preparation. Malungay and saluyot are the quintessentially Ilocano vegetables—cheap, plentiful, nutritious, and versatile. The longevity of the Ilocano is usually attributed to the simple fare that he never tires of—boiled vegetables and grilled or steamed fish, with the occasional meat dish.
Ironically, these elements of modesty and simplicity are what make Sitio Remedios, the latest travel destination in Ilocos Norte, special. Visitors remark that arriving at the Sitio gives them a feeling of calm, or peace—of going back to a half forgotten way of life that is leisurely, peaceful and simple. A chair of aparador would remind them of their grandparents’ house; a dish would bring back memories of a family get together held decades earlier, or a beloved aunt who used to prepare it exactly the same way.
Heritage Village by the South China Sea
The seven balays (houses) in the Sitio are preserved mid-20th century structures that used to dot the Ilocos Norte countryside. Many are now gone, having been demolished, as returning Overseas Filipino Workers from the United States, Europe and other places, are tearing down their old homes to make way for larger cement structures that are largely Mediterranean inspired. Observing this phenomenon during his high school class' golden reunion in December 2005, Dr. Joven R. Cuanang of Batac decided to salvage as many of these houses as he could, and rebuild them at his beachside property in Currimao.
The vision became a reality with the help of the doctor's friends, who scoured the province for old wooden houses being sold, and the capable hands of Architect Rex Hofilena. He interpreted the doctor's idea as a Sitio, a small community centered on a church (the Capilla San Miguel) at the highest point in the property, and a plaza (the Plaza Manzanilla). The seven houses that circle the church and plaza are named after the towns where they were sourced—Batac, Piddig, Dingras, Bacarra, Vintar, San Nicolas and Pasuquin. A total of eleven air-conditioned bedrooms can accommodate up to 30-plus adults. A function hall—Sentro Iloco—serves as the meeting venue for seminars and workshops, while the Cloisters—two large rooms that serve as dormitories offer a more economical alternative for up to 20 persons. With these amenities complete, the Sitio is ready to accept groups of up to 50 plus adults for executive planning sessions, seminars and workshops. The chapel and plaza are likewise suitable venues for romantic beach weddings, family reunions, and other functions. Individual guests who want to have a restful weekend are of course welcome.
Pride of Place
Sitio Remedios is not a luxury resort. Neither is it a museum of the best furniture or accessories available in Ilocos. What Sitio Remedios offers is a living environment that seeks to recapture the feel of a bygone era—a place where neighbors know one another, and care for each other in a community that is inspired by a shared history, tradition, and faith. "It's about pride of place," the doctor beams, "about knowing who we are, where we came from, and what we want to do with our lives." Little wonder then that friends who come to visit (for all who visit inevitably get to know each other) begin to call the balay they occupy "our house."
Healing the Soul
Many have come to visit Sitio Remedios—balikbayans, as well as intrepid foreigners looking for a new experience. Each one left with a different memory of Sitio—some found the food intriguing, some liked the furniture, some loved the idea of preserving a vanishing heritage. The doctor heard from a friend in New York about how a Sitio guest was gushing about eating kaimito after breakfast—because the kaimito was hand-picked from the tree at the plaza just moments earlier. A ten-year old boy from Canada declared Sitio "better than Christmas!" Some who came were not impressed, but that is also fine because it was never the intention to impress. In this time of internet and cable TV, Sitio hopes to rekindle interest in the lost art of conversation— families and friends together, creating tomorrow's memories.
There are no television sets, no radio or newspapers in Sitio Remedios. For people who want to literally get away for a few days, Sitio Remedios offers the luxury of being inaccessible. The Ablon Spa, named after the Ilocano term for healing through massage, provides a soothing hilot experience for bodies that seek pampering.
True to its name, the Sitio provides the cure, the remedy for tired souls that need to be refreshed. As the precocious twelve-year old girl from Paris wrote in the guest book: "Sitio Remedios is a jewel amongst jewels—it's what the soul wants."
The hallmark of the Ilocos Norte home is its simplicity, its relatively modest dimensions. It usually has one or two bedrooms, in addition to the living and dining rooms, a kitchen, and perhaps a veranda or porch. Ilocos furniture is likewise distinguished by its spare lines, with little or no ornamentation, and its use of choice hard woods – narra, molave, balayong or sagat. Even the plants around the Ilocano home are ordinary—San Francisco, bougainvillea, maguey, yucca, cacti and other succulents, even the lowly gabi.
Traditional Iloco food—the abrao (or dinengdeng), pakbet, varied ensaladas—are similarly simple and easy to prepare, with minimal handling and preparation. Malungay and saluyot are the quintessentially Ilocano vegetables—cheap, plentiful, nutritious, and versatile. The longevity of the Ilocano is usually attributed to the simple fare that he never tires of—boiled vegetables and grilled or steamed fish, with the occasional meat dish.
Ironically, these elements of modesty and simplicity are what make Sitio Remedios, the latest travel destination in Ilocos Norte, special. Visitors remark that arriving at the Sitio gives them a feeling of calm, or peace—of going back to a half forgotten way of life that is leisurely, peaceful and simple. A chair of aparador would remind them of their grandparents’ house; a dish would bring back memories of a family get together held decades earlier, or a beloved aunt who used to prepare it exactly the same way.
Heritage Village by the South China Sea
The seven balays (houses) in the Sitio are preserved mid-20th century structures that used to dot the Ilocos Norte countryside. Many are now gone, having been demolished, as returning Overseas Filipino Workers from the United States, Europe and other places, are tearing down their old homes to make way for larger cement structures that are largely Mediterranean inspired. Observing this phenomenon during his high school class' golden reunion in December 2005, Dr. Joven R. Cuanang of Batac decided to salvage as many of these houses as he could, and rebuild them at his beachside property in Currimao.
The vision became a reality with the help of the doctor's friends, who scoured the province for old wooden houses being sold, and the capable hands of Architect Rex Hofilena. He interpreted the doctor's idea as a Sitio, a small community centered on a church (the Capilla San Miguel) at the highest point in the property, and a plaza (the Plaza Manzanilla). The seven houses that circle the church and plaza are named after the towns where they were sourced—Batac, Piddig, Dingras, Bacarra, Vintar, San Nicolas and Pasuquin. A total of eleven air-conditioned bedrooms can accommodate up to 30-plus adults. A function hall—Sentro Iloco—serves as the meeting venue for seminars and workshops, while the Cloisters—two large rooms that serve as dormitories offer a more economical alternative for up to 20 persons. With these amenities complete, the Sitio is ready to accept groups of up to 50 plus adults for executive planning sessions, seminars and workshops. The chapel and plaza are likewise suitable venues for romantic beach weddings, family reunions, and other functions. Individual guests who want to have a restful weekend are of course welcome.
Pride of Place
Sitio Remedios is not a luxury resort. Neither is it a museum of the best furniture or accessories available in Ilocos. What Sitio Remedios offers is a living environment that seeks to recapture the feel of a bygone era—a place where neighbors know one another, and care for each other in a community that is inspired by a shared history, tradition, and faith. "It's about pride of place," the doctor beams, "about knowing who we are, where we came from, and what we want to do with our lives." Little wonder then that friends who come to visit (for all who visit inevitably get to know each other) begin to call the balay they occupy "our house."
Healing the Soul
Many have come to visit Sitio Remedios—balikbayans, as well as intrepid foreigners looking for a new experience. Each one left with a different memory of Sitio—some found the food intriguing, some liked the furniture, some loved the idea of preserving a vanishing heritage. The doctor heard from a friend in New York about how a Sitio guest was gushing about eating kaimito after breakfast—because the kaimito was hand-picked from the tree at the plaza just moments earlier. A ten-year old boy from Canada declared Sitio "better than Christmas!" Some who came were not impressed, but that is also fine because it was never the intention to impress. In this time of internet and cable TV, Sitio hopes to rekindle interest in the lost art of conversation— families and friends together, creating tomorrow's memories.
There are no television sets, no radio or newspapers in Sitio Remedios. For people who want to literally get away for a few days, Sitio Remedios offers the luxury of being inaccessible. The Ablon Spa, named after the Ilocano term for healing through massage, provides a soothing hilot experience for bodies that seek pampering.
True to its name, the Sitio provides the cure, the remedy for tired souls that need to be refreshed. As the precocious twelve-year old girl from Paris wrote in the guest book: "Sitio Remedios is a jewel amongst jewels—it's what the soul wants."
Tuesday, January 15, 2008
Pasuquin Biscocho
Since I was a kid, my cousins have been making biscocho at the Pasuquin Bakery. Their product, to quote a friend, has become "an edible landmark" of the province, as it is known far and wide--reaching the far corners of the world, wherever there are Ilocanos.
Unlike most biscocho which is made using stale leftover bread, Pasuquin biscocho is made using freshly baked bread, specifically made to be toasted. And unlike the usual biscocho, Pasuquin biscocho is not sweet. Rather, it is flavored with anise (the same flavor you taste in absinthe). My cousins tell me the recipe was made by one town old-timer, the late Timot Josue, who was trained in one of the Spanish style panaderias of colonial Manila. His assistants, Sixto and Estefania Salmon, deduced both the ingredients and the process through careful observation and measurements.
Lolo Sixto also served as baker to the American forces temporarily stationed at Victory Road, south of the poblacion, after World War II. From his savings, he put up what is now called the Pasuquin Bakery, currently being managed by his only child, Manang Esperanza Alvarez, better known as Pansing.
Practically every bus, jeepney and private vehicle makes an obligatory stop at the Pasuquin Bakery, with everyone ordering biscocho. Because of its immense popularity, the freshly baked soft bread is now also on sale--perfect with cheese, or condensed milk, or Spanish style sardines. An enterprising neighbor now sells biscocho sandwiches at Shore Stop, right across the Shell gas station immediately south of the poblacion, on the way to Bacarra and Laoag.
Unlike most biscocho which is made using stale leftover bread, Pasuquin biscocho is made using freshly baked bread, specifically made to be toasted. And unlike the usual biscocho, Pasuquin biscocho is not sweet. Rather, it is flavored with anise (the same flavor you taste in absinthe). My cousins tell me the recipe was made by one town old-timer, the late Timot Josue, who was trained in one of the Spanish style panaderias of colonial Manila. His assistants, Sixto and Estefania Salmon, deduced both the ingredients and the process through careful observation and measurements.
Lolo Sixto also served as baker to the American forces temporarily stationed at Victory Road, south of the poblacion, after World War II. From his savings, he put up what is now called the Pasuquin Bakery, currently being managed by his only child, Manang Esperanza Alvarez, better known as Pansing.
Practically every bus, jeepney and private vehicle makes an obligatory stop at the Pasuquin Bakery, with everyone ordering biscocho. Because of its immense popularity, the freshly baked soft bread is now also on sale--perfect with cheese, or condensed milk, or Spanish style sardines. An enterprising neighbor now sells biscocho sandwiches at Shore Stop, right across the Shell gas station immediately south of the poblacion, on the way to Bacarra and Laoag.
The Hills of Pasuquin
The other weekend, I went around the eastern part of Pasuquin, my hometown. First stop was Tadao, on the northeast corner where Bimmaka hill is located. Access is through well-kept dirt roads, occasionally paved at strategic areas (where road goes uphill, or where it crosses creeks), with beautiful views of the hills and mountains of Vintar to the east, Sapat to the north, and the distant sea to the west.
There is a small valley between the poblacion and Tadao, reportedly once part of a large encomienda that supported the parish church, but now devoted to agriculture. My sources tell me there was a pre-war manganese mining operation operated by Japanese in Bimmaka. There was also a post-war logging concession operated by one of the pioneering Chinese families in the town.
Right beside the barangay hall (with requisite day care and basketball court) is a kiln for terra cotta products. Sadly, the place looked abandoned, which is a pity, considering the quality of their clay. I plan to go back and bring terra cotta artisans to help the locals improve on their traditional earthen pots and bricks.
To the southeast of the town are other hillside barangays which are also accessed through well-maintained dirt roads. The view from Sta. Catalina, again only a few kilometers from the border with Vintar, is also spectacular--the blue sea to the west, and the green and blue mountains to the east.
There is a small valley between the poblacion and Tadao, reportedly once part of a large encomienda that supported the parish church, but now devoted to agriculture. My sources tell me there was a pre-war manganese mining operation operated by Japanese in Bimmaka. There was also a post-war logging concession operated by one of the pioneering Chinese families in the town.
Right beside the barangay hall (with requisite day care and basketball court) is a kiln for terra cotta products. Sadly, the place looked abandoned, which is a pity, considering the quality of their clay. I plan to go back and bring terra cotta artisans to help the locals improve on their traditional earthen pots and bricks.
To the southeast of the town are other hillside barangays which are also accessed through well-maintained dirt roads. The view from Sta. Catalina, again only a few kilometers from the border with Vintar, is also spectacular--the blue sea to the west, and the green and blue mountains to the east.
Sunday, January 13, 2008
It's Not Just Saud and Mairaira
Spent the day in Pagudpud this Sunday--leisurely drive before noon, with lunch at carinderia near town plaza. The paksiw na local galunggong (called Baraniti here) cooked in native onions and tomatoes--was just heavenly. The pork adobo was very dry, while the adobong sili with saluyot was its perfect counterpoint. The imbaliktad (beef kinilaw boiled for a few seconds to half cook the meat) was just capriccio.
From town center, it's a twenty minute drive to Barangay Ayoyo--through well-kept dirt roads with wonderful views of the surf and sea--a small promontory here with Australian sheep (!) grazing on the grass between crags and cracks; a pebble beach on one side, while the view to the hills reminds you of a savannah. There's a resort
called Hidden Treasure on a beautiful cliff, but they really should hide that resort until they make a better design. The fake wood handrails and makeshift cottages just won't do.
Barangay Ayoyo's main livelihood is fishing, but you have to go very very early morning as they bring the catch to the town market at dawn. They also make beautiful and sturdy sleeping mats from a hardy plant called budak--the spiny and thorny plant with pineapple-like fruits. They remove the thorns using nylon string, then cut the leaves into three long strands. The strands are then softened using a dull knife, and dried prior to weaving, which is done by hand by the village women. They also want to make bags, fans and other items, but do not have the know-how.
Beside Ayoyo is Caunayan--where the surf is endless, and where more than twenty submarines landed on secret missions bringing in materiel and personnel to the Ilocos Norte guerillas during the last days of World War II. If you have been to Pagudpud, and know Saud Beach and Mairaira, these are just two more new places to see during your next visit.
The hills and mountains to the east of Ilocos Norte are another thing altogether. I hear they have beautiful native baskets,dried venison and alingo (baboy damo). Something to look forward to on other weekends.
From town center, it's a twenty minute drive to Barangay Ayoyo--through well-kept dirt roads with wonderful views of the surf and sea--a small promontory here with Australian sheep (!) grazing on the grass between crags and cracks; a pebble beach on one side, while the view to the hills reminds you of a savannah. There's a resort
called Hidden Treasure on a beautiful cliff, but they really should hide that resort until they make a better design. The fake wood handrails and makeshift cottages just won't do.
Barangay Ayoyo's main livelihood is fishing, but you have to go very very early morning as they bring the catch to the town market at dawn. They also make beautiful and sturdy sleeping mats from a hardy plant called budak--the spiny and thorny plant with pineapple-like fruits. They remove the thorns using nylon string, then cut the leaves into three long strands. The strands are then softened using a dull knife, and dried prior to weaving, which is done by hand by the village women. They also want to make bags, fans and other items, but do not have the know-how.
Beside Ayoyo is Caunayan--where the surf is endless, and where more than twenty submarines landed on secret missions bringing in materiel and personnel to the Ilocos Norte guerillas during the last days of World War II. If you have been to Pagudpud, and know Saud Beach and Mairaira, these are just two more new places to see during your next visit.
The hills and mountains to the east of Ilocos Norte are another thing altogether. I hear they have beautiful native baskets,dried venison and alingo (baboy damo). Something to look forward to on other weekends.
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