Sitio Remedios

Ilocano wanderlust is well known, with the first sugarcane field workers leaving for Hawaii from the Ilocos provinces more than a century ago. Go to any world capital—Hong Kong, London, New York, Los Angeles, Rome, —and you will hear Ilocano spoken in their parks and churches on any Sunday. But no matter how far away he travels the Ilocano will invariably look back to the simple, unpretentious balay on some dusty road in that far-away hometown.

The hallmark of the Ilocos Norte home is its simplicity, its relatively modest dimensions. It usually has one or two bedrooms, in addition to the living and dining rooms, a kitchen, and perhaps a veranda or porch. Ilocos furniture is likewise distinguished by its spare lines, with little or no ornamentation, and its use of choice hard woods – narra, molave, balayong or sagat. Even the plants around the Ilocano home are ordinary—San Francisco, bougainvillea, maguey, yucca, cacti and other succulents, even the lowly gabi.

Traditional Iloco food—the abrao (or dinengdeng), pakbet, varied ensaladas—are similarly simple and easy to prepare, with minimal handling and preparation. Malungay and saluyot are the quintessentially Ilocano vegetables—cheap, plentiful, nutritious, and versatile. The longevity of the Ilocano is usually attributed to the simple fare that he never tires of—boiled vegetables and grilled or steamed fish, with the occasional meat dish.

Ironically, these elements of modesty and simplicity are what make Sitio Remedios, the latest travel destination in Ilocos Norte, special. Visitors remark that arriving at the Sitio gives them a feeling of calm, or peace—of going back to a half forgotten way of life that is leisurely, peaceful and simple. A chair of aparador would remind them of their grandparents’ house; a dish would bring back memories of a family get together held decades earlier, or a beloved aunt who used to prepare it exactly the same way.

Heritage Village by the South China Sea

The seven balays (houses) in the Sitio are preserved mid-20th century structures that used to dot the Ilocos Norte countryside. Many are now gone, having been demolished, as returning Overseas Filipino Workers from the United States, Europe and other places, are tearing down their old homes to make way for larger cement structures that are largely Mediterranean inspired. Observing this phenomenon during his high school class' golden reunion in December 2005, Dr. Joven R. Cuanang of Batac decided to salvage as many of these houses as he could, and rebuild them at his beachside property in Currimao.

The vision became a reality with the help of the doctor's friends, who scoured the province for old wooden houses being sold, and the capable hands of Architect Rex Hofilena. He interpreted the doctor's idea as a Sitio, a small community centered on a church (the Capilla San Miguel) at the highest point in the property, and a plaza (the Plaza Manzanilla). The seven houses that circle the church and plaza are named after the towns where they were sourced—Batac, Piddig, Dingras, Bacarra, Vintar, San Nicolas and Pasuquin. A total of eleven air-conditioned bedrooms can accommodate up to 30-plus adults. A function hall—Sentro Iloco—serves as the meeting venue for seminars and workshops, while the Cloisters—two large rooms that serve as dormitories offer a more economical alternative for up to 20 persons. With these amenities complete, the Sitio is ready to accept groups of up to 50 plus adults for executive planning sessions, seminars and workshops. The chapel and plaza are likewise suitable venues for romantic beach weddings, family reunions, and other functions. Individual guests who want to have a restful weekend are of course welcome.

Pride of Place

Sitio Remedios is not a luxury resort. Neither is it a museum of the best furniture or accessories available in Ilocos. What Sitio Remedios offers is a living environment that seeks to recapture the feel of a bygone era—a place where neighbors know one another, and care for each other in a community that is inspired by a shared history, tradition, and faith. "It's about pride of place," the doctor beams, "about knowing who we are, where we came from, and what we want to do with our lives." Little wonder then that friends who come to visit (for all who visit inevitably get to know each other) begin to call the balay they occupy "our house."

Healing the Soul

Many have come to visit Sitio Remedios—balikbayans, as well as intrepid foreigners looking for a new experience. Each one left with a different memory of Sitio—some found the food intriguing, some liked the furniture, some loved the idea of preserving a vanishing heritage. The doctor heard from a friend in New York about how a Sitio guest was gushing about eating kaimito after breakfast—because the kaimito was hand-picked from the tree at the plaza just moments earlier. A ten-year old boy from Canada declared Sitio "better than Christmas!" Some who came were not impressed, but that is also fine because it was never the intention to impress. In this time of internet and cable TV, Sitio hopes to rekindle interest in the lost art of conversation— families and friends together, creating tomorrow's memories.

There are no television sets, no radio or newspapers in Sitio Remedios. For people who want to literally get away for a few days, Sitio Remedios offers the luxury of being inaccessible. The Ablon Spa, named after the Ilocano term for healing through massage, provides a soothing hilot experience for bodies that seek pampering.

True to its name, the Sitio provides the cure, the remedy for tired souls that need to be refreshed. As the precocious twelve-year old girl from Paris wrote in the guest book: "Sitio Remedios is a jewel amongst jewels—it's what the soul wants."